El Mariachi Rises

 Picked up El Mariachi from JC at Rebound today.  On a mystery of motivation, El Mariachi has been rebuilt.  Same frame but new forks, new rims, new drive train and a revived spirit.  So it is hanging out in the garage waiting for a return to glory... maybe just a ride to Mexico would satisfy the spirit.  2013, 2017 a hiatus until 2021 and we can journey back to the divide.  All healed - ready to go.  All to say, the spirit is ready to go, will work on the body but that is secondary to spirit.  We'll just let the mystery be how El Mariachi was rebuilt, rising from the ashes is almost prophetic.  More anon.

Back to the Well

Finished the 2017 Tour Divide at 12:56 in the morning... still Canada Day in British Columbia so I was pretty stoked to say it was my Canada Day project.  This year's tour was different, a little bit harder, a little bit longer and certainly a lot hotter.  It's a very interesting place to be, both spiritually and physically.  Hard to describe but easy to feel.  More adventures are sure to follow.

Time and Space

I was riding along the Warm River in Idaho again and still thinking of our Peter, his wonderful laugh and how he would love to be kayaking this river.  Five years on and it still hurts and may even be more difficult to reconcile.  That's the time of which I speak.  The space has not really changed but that day it looked different in the sense of sentiment.  An optimistic river bubbling through the mountains.

A few minutes later I crossed another river and saw some folks fly fishing and there was a gentleman in a quad.  I waved at him, he waved back and I continued on to the next intersection where I took a much needed physical and emotional break. Soon after I stopped, this gentleman pulled up in his quad and smiled.  I could see a cane in the back off the quad and I noticed he had trouble speaking.  So I started right in, telling him about the trip and working with hand signals to answer his questions.   He had recently been hit by a stroke and speech was a problem.  Regardless,  we did our best to communicate and the interaction ended with a hug.  I still think about that day and that moment.  I often wonder if his name was Peter.

Beautiful places-Beautiful people

Just pay it forward.  I came down stemple pass last night in the dark and was thinking that the campground was down there somewhere.  Suddenly, I saw a beacon flashing and cowbells ringing.  I come around the corner and Barbara and John are waiting for me with welcome arms.  Not only the welcome, they have the cutest cabin all outfitted for td riders.  Called "Lost Llama Lodge" as they have llamas wandering around.  All they ask is for riders to pay it forward.

Whew - pretty nice to know there are such beautiful people - they are living in a "Beautiful Place".

Sleeping out - the best part

Glad to be getting out of the Rockies.  The reroute was  burly.  Looks like another night out in the nemo tent.  Works like a charm to keep me dry.  Woke up with the birds.  The world's most beautiful wake up.

Bike Packed - time for some schoolin'

Hey there - the bike is all packed except for some small little items, like food for Friday and Saturday morning.  I rode into Banff and checked out what was happening at the TD Central (Banff YWCA).  It was pretty busy with folks assembling bikes and doing some test rides.  It seems that the biggest concern is for bears.  This is good - awareness is a start and I believe there will be an information session for those who want more info as well.

The real reason for the trip to Banff was to visit Ms. Reid's Awesome Grade 3 class!  What a treat, we had a lot of fun talking about how I will sleep, how much food I can eat and so much more.  They are doing a unit on "data analysis" and are they ever sharp.  They will track my daily distance, avg speed, avg moving speed and one enterprising soul wants to track how many litres of water I will drink.

The best was setting up the tent and them checking out the bike.  As I ride the divide and find myself lounging in my Nemo bivy tent, being the object of their data analysis will provide motivation to get up and get going.

Imagining and longing

Rosemary Lee and Lisa Downing 

On Wednesday, May 31, 2017, I rode up and met Lisa Downing and Rosemary Lee an hour or so into their Tour Divide.  They both have unfinished business with this ride and by all accounts, I believe they are going to finish that business.

They left 9 days earlier than the "Grand Depart" so they are getting the full snow and "hike a bike" treatment. After 4 days, they are rolling into Whitefish Montana and from watching their progress online - it has been epic.

The Friday before Lisa left, we had a coffee at the Good Earth Cafe in Canmore.  Sitting outside in the beautiful afternoon, our conversation covered the technical details of the ride (Bikes, Route, Gear, Food, camping out, should I bring bear spray, etc) but it really focused on the mental component.  Hoping that all the physical aspects fall into place, it's the headspace into which a person needs to go in order to enjoy the experience.


Here's what we came up with - imagine the journey, then enjoy it and be there.   Listen to yourself, the people you meet and most importantly, listen to the landscape.  It's beautiful.  Long to be out there - it comes to an end too shortly.

Some serious training

Wasn't kidding about the Giro.  Will miss this as I am out there riding. 

Looks like Matthew and Paul have figured out a route around the Flathead section where there is a bridge washout.  We will be turning west before Elkford and over the Divide on Round Prairie Road.  I rode this in the 2005 Transrockies and it is burrrrlllyyy.    Stoked though, this is the real deal in terms of being out there.    Get to go thru Fernie   Yippee!

El Mariachi Rides Again

I was out for a training ride to shake the bike down - rode the High Rockies Trail.  It was still covered in some fairly heavy snow from Wednesday's snowstorm.  A pretty good sufferfest and test of bike and engine.
Bike is doing well - the engine needs some work. Two weeks with a bad cold and sinus infection has stunted the training plan.  I am hoping that watching the Giro d'Italia counts as training hours.  Regardless, El Mariachi rides again for Mexico on June 9th, watch trackleaders.com for progress.





Oh yeah - here's the snow part.

So... 2 weeks to the Grand Depart from Banff.  I added an innovative new feature to El Mariachi.  A dynamo hub so we can keep that smart phone charged.  Facebook and blogposts galore.

The Odyssey Continues

Since finishing the Divide in 2013, it has been a whirlwind of home activities, work changes and a lot of trail building.  Rob, Ken, John and I have been working to complete a new trail called "The Odyssey" at the Canmore Nordic Centre.  I was up there tonight and working away at yet another section and just enjoying being out there.  It has turned out to be a beautiful trail - hand crafted with hope and love.

One of the things that brings me great joy is being outside, in the wilderness and listening to the sounds - inside and outside, as they are never far apart.  I hope people enjoy "The Odyssey" - it's where we all want to be, even for the briefest of moments.

I am leaving Parks Canada in 2017 after a lifetime of adventure and growth.  I wish I could keep on but keeping on means moving on.  So, I am planning on goin' back to the "Divide"  and then on to more adventures and excitement.  I am going to ride that long road and wish for you!  It brings me great joy.





Ben Thompson on "The Odyssey"

The Best Phone Call Ever and the Best Reception ever at the Calgary Airport

On Sunday July 7th 11:30pm, I finished the Tour Divide as I rolled up to the Antelope Wells border crossing.  4200kms, lots of adventures and many stories later, it was a great moment and a fitting end to a very fulfilling journey.   It was raining heavily as I pulled up to Antelope Wells.  I had Peter's rain jacket on and was totally fine - pretty comfy actually.  I took shelter under the Customs building and started getting organized for the trip home.  My first call was home and Ben picked up right away.  He said "Congratulations George, you made it - well done, you were killin' it over the last few kilometres."  What a great call! I also had lots of other  texts and calls as many were watching my progress on Trackleaders - thank you.

With no one around the Customs building, I bivied under the shelter and prepared for the trip home.  Michael picked me up at 6:30, we were in El Paso at the Crazy Cat Cyclery at 11:00am.  I was showered and wearing new clothes by 1:30pm, Burger and Beer at 2:00pm (using Alistair's and Ken's money they gave me), bike taken to FedEx at 3:00pm, and then I walked over to the airport and caught a 6:30 flight that I had just booked on points.  I was in the Calgary Airport at 11:50pm and this is where Val and Scott and Deb met me.  What a fantastic welcome home!  Scott made the banner and I was so happy to see them.






 

On the Divide, one learns much about many things and those that touch and connect with your life.  An adventure and a journey for sure, and I am so grateful for  the support and encouragement from all of you and most importantly from Val and Ben.

Antelope Wells

The journey is over. I rode into the Border Crossing at 11:29pm. It was a long stretch last night that started with a sandstorm and ended with a headwind and rain. I kept laughing about it - what else can you do? It's the Tour Divide.

Slept under the Customs Building to keep dry and get ready for my pickup. Michael is bringing the old Caddy from Silver City and will drop me in El Paso. El Mariachi will go the bike shop in Silver City and they will box and ship it to me by UPS.

It's been great fun coming up with Blog posts and I will do one more when I get home. As I sit here waiting, this journey may be almost done. We all have journeys in us. This one was special for me and I thank everyone for their support and encouragement

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El Falcone and El Mariachi

Wow - where to start... Left Pie Town on Friday and about 50kms out, my left pedal came loose and then off. Somewhere, the bottom bracket screw came out and then my pedal loosened as it is needed to keep the pedal on the hub. Splines were ok so I one legged it and hiked back to Pie town. I caught a ride into Albuquerque and Ryan at Performance Bikes stayed late and fixed El Mariachi. A day lost but better than trying to rig a half baked solution that could have left me stranded in the wilderness.

Back on the bike yesterday and I got to do the Gila Wildernness section as it reopened on Friday evening. This section is beautiful and embodies the Spirit Divide. After camping out last night, I finished the section and got to Silver City and am having breakfast at Vicky's. Met Kathy and Peter's friend - Jeff at the Gila bike shop. He helped me organize a shuttle from Antelope Wells to El Paso tomorrow. Gila bikes will box my bike and send it home.

Glad to be on the last stretch but sad it is coming to an end. Looking forward to seeing Ben and Val!

Picture of rock canyon where a falcon was squawking and chasing me out. The Gila wilderness was home to Geronimo and his family. El Falcone.

Ok - off to AW - more anon.

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Long on Spirit

A short post as I am making a run for Pie Town after covering 100kms from Pueblo Pintada this morning. Had a good bivy on the Rec Centre porch.
This was a recommendation from a Navajo woman we met last night. She said could see I was traveling with a strong spirit.

Had an emotional morning as I traveled down to Grants. Peter was totally with me and thoughts of our friends, Laura and Bill and Thomas, who lost Andrew last year. I have the amulet for good luck and to remember those families who have lost children.

I also carry a Smiling Buddha from a good friend. It is a great reminder to be positive.

On a funny note, I got stuck in the Grants 4th of July parade festivities. In these parts, I think I was mistaken for a real skinny clown on a hobo bike.

Pic of standard New Mexico road.

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Through the Wilderness

Left Platoro and made it 210 kms to El Rito late last night. Bivied on the college campus last night and made it to Abiqiu this morning. I got caught in a horrendous hail storm about 7:00pm last night.

After getting my rain gear out I made it to Sylvia's store in Canon plaza. Lifesaver - she was waiting for me and after a few snacks, I moved on with Ron and Jean-Louis. We had our pepper spray at the ready when we went through Vallecitas - crazy dog village.
No major incidents but those dogs were on our heels.

A bunch of reroutes due to fires - don't be alarmed if I am off the track. Pics of hail on the ground and one Sylvia.


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UnicyCle the Divide

Went through Silverthorne, Frisco and Breckinridge last night. Popped over Boreas Pass this morning and into South Park. It does exist and when I stopped, there must have been 200 Harleys parked around. We compared bikes and shot the breeze for a bit.

Rolled into Salida and had some work done on my bike. Pizza at Moonlights was served by Gracie. She rode the whole route on a unicycle! Took her two and a half months. I have a picture with her on my other camera. She may post one from her phone on the forum.

Some serious off road motor bikers bought us beer at the pizza joint. I met them above Salida on the way down into town. Pretty big day. Marshall pass at some astronomical height is on for tomorrow. Salida is the place to go in Colorado. Off the beaten path and very funky.

This pic is from a few days ago in Wyoming.


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What does a Hungry biker eat?

How about 2 world famous breakfast burritos, large choc shake, 2 pepsi, brownie and a coffee. Still can't decide what to do for dessert. For tonight, I will carry 6 litres of water, 2 big sandwiches, salt and vinegar chips, cherry tart and then breakfast will be 2 sausage and eggers with another cherry tart. Yummy!

I am in Kremmling eating and rehydrating at the "Big Shooter" restaurant. The family who owns it are big X-ctry skiers. The picture is of the ceiling - definitely a nordic theme. Who would guess - in the middle of Colorado.

BTW - some big climbs here, the next few are over 10000 feet with the highest at 12000. Definitely getting my climbing groove back. I will be worthy of my Wednesday night bike night nickname - "The Tiny Peruvian Hill Climber".
Had an amazing camp at Lynx pass last night. At 9500 feet, the stars were amazing and it was a beautiful night with cool temperatures and no mosquitoes.

I think Prentice pulled the plug last night. We had an emotional moment outside of Steamboat - a really nice young man from New York. An IT technician and part time bike messenger. I want him to come to Canmore and rip it up.

Ok that's it for now - places to be and hills to climb.

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Yahoo I am in Colorado

Hanging at Brush Mtn Lodge - 2 dinners, and drinks and a big hug from Kirsten. She yelled and cheered as I came in the yard. Beautiful valley after a crazy hard day finishing the Wyoming basin with a headwind all the way.

Kirsten and Greg are the hosts here. This is the coolest lodge ever. Just looking at the skyline and listening to the elk and coyotes.

Big climbs tomorrow, into Steamboat for my mail drop and a new tire.

Picture of Greg - host at Brush Mountain Lodge.


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The Perfect River

After my last post, I rode by this perfect white water river and I could just hear our Peter down in the Canyon. This would be Kayak heaven! It's the Warm River in Idaho.

Made it to Flagg Ranch in the dark that night and then on Sunday it was 2 big passes (Towgatee and Union) - both of them are around 9700 feet. I bivied just below Union Pass at around 8000 feet and was joined by a North Bounder. Yesterday was a full on sufferfest to Pinedale against the wind. In the afternoon, the wind was at my back and I covered more ground and camped up high. It rained and got quite cold last night so I decided to push for Rawlins and a motel room to dry ut the gear. Just came through 280 km of desert today - crux of the ride as there are no services or water resupply spots.

Fantastic trip so far and thanks to Val and Ben and Zeke for taking care of the Canmore end. I am sure there will be plenty left to do when I get home.

Crazy throw back in time this morning at Atlantic City. Had b-fast at the Grubstake Bar and Saloon. Watched some Bonanza while I ate my Steak and Eggs. Couple of guys walk in and leave their rifles leaning at the door. Very interesting place.

Off to Colorado tomorrow and my mail drop at Steamboat Springs. Yahoo clean shorts.

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Moving on

After a few hours of indecisiveness last ight about the situation in Canmore. I left Lima and got to 6000 feet and bivied for the night by the Red Rock National Wildlife. Water in Camelbaks was frozen when I got up. Saw 5 moose as I cycled through the reserve. Truly one of the most beautiful places anywhere.

Pushing on once I refuel and do some bike mtce. Hopefully the headwinds will abate at some point.

Here is a picture looking back at the Refuge.


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